Tuolumne Meadows: The Place and the Ale
(Personal note: I just found out today that Wheels of Change, my book on the history of California automobiles, won the James Valentine Memorial Award for 2010, awarded by the Southern California chapter of the Society of Automotive Historians to the best California car book of the year. Award ceremony in Nov. Champagne to pop now. Or should it be beer? Read on...)
At 8,600 feet above sea level, Tuolumne Meadows is on Tioga Road in the Yosemite high country. The Tuolumne River runs through it. Most impressive are the peaks that surround it: the striking, sharp-faced Cathedral Peak and Cathedral Range to the west, and the Lyell Range to the southeast, which is anchored by massive Mt. Lyell, the highest peak in Yosemite Park (13,114 ft.). Bulky Lembert Dome is the dominant landmark of the meadows and at the top, it affords some spectacular views.
I know Yosemite Park fairly well, having hiked and climbed there since I was a teenager, but until a recent trip I hadn't really spent much time in the Meadows. Because Yosemite Valley is so hot in the summer many rock climbers migrate up to the Meadows because it's slightly cooler, and young, frisky-looking men and women weighted down with climbing gear about to scale Lembert or some other granite wall are among the pleasing sights there. Needless to say, I took the hiker's path to the top of Lembert, while rock climbers take one of the more direct vertical routes up the face.
Tioga Road is closed in the winter, due to snow. But it's open in the summer, which in turn opens up Tuolumne Meadows to armies of vehicles and the two-footed invaders that pilot them. It's a busy place, but not without a funky high country charm. There are campgrounds, a lodge, horseback riding, bicycle paths, fishing in the Tuolumne, and a busy little grill and general store right on the road.
Many of the people I saw at the store seemed to fit into two categories: scruffy mountain types, and those who read the New York Times on Sunday mornings. Well, that's not quite right. There were some unwashed, beer-swilling tourists like myself around as well. I was standing in front of the cold case deciding what to do when a friendly, mustachioed East Indian guy grabbed a six-pack of a heretofore unknown brew (unknown by me, that is) by the name of Paranoids Pale Ale. "Is that any good?" his buddy asked him. "I don't know," he said with a smile. "We'll find out."
The Mammoth Brewing Company, which makes Paranoids, is in Mammoth Lakes, California, a tiny town south of Yosemite in the eastern Sierra Nevada about a half-hour south of Mono Lake. It has a top-drawer ski resort beloved by Los Angeleno downhill schussers and snowboarders and it is also the summer training center for United States Olympic long distance running in the country. Seeing that I was actually in Tuolumne Meadows, it seemed only right that I follow my fellow beer-swiller's example and find out more about Mammoth's products. So I bought a self-arranged six-pack that included two Paranoids, one Double Nut Brown, and three Tuolumne Meadows IPAs.
I haven't tried the Double Nut Brown yet, but I'm looking forward to it because I loved the Paranoids, especially its name. I'm not sure why they call it that; perhaps if you drink too many Paranoids and combine it with certain illegal substances you might begin to feel a little 'noid. Or not. Anyhow, the beer I chose for that night was a Tuolumne Meadows IPA, which seemed fitting given where I was. I drove back down Tioga Road to my campsite at Yosemite Creek and then popped open a bottle and drank it with an improvised dinner of Top Ramen soup and tuna. Now that's living, eh?
Dog Lake in Tuolumne Meadows, with Mt. Dana and Mt. Gilbert in the b.g.
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